![]() ![]() ![]() I made the coil winder so that the inside spindle is the size of my 'paper' coil template. Of course we'll need to take this back off so we can cast polyester resin around the magnets. Pictured above we have the magnets 'super glued' onto the rotor, and one rotor is mounted to the machine. Later on, this wooden piece will serve as the bottom of the stator mould so I'll have some guidelines for placing the coils. Here I've laid out the path the magnets will take, and the approximate size that I think the coils should be. ![]() and dangerous!! They measure 1.5" X 3" X 3/4" thick. The magnets are quite large - very powerful. In this machine we have 16 magnets per rotor. Pictured above is the template we use to place the magnets on the steel rotors. We can then stick the jig over the wheel spindle and weld the brackets on in exactly the right position. I made a simple 'jig' 20" in diameter, and drilled the 6 holes in it - and a center hole that fits over the wheel spindle, (basically a blank stator) and then we bolt the stator brackets to the jig. The diameter of the stator will be 20", so the diameter of the stator brackets is also 20". it works fine so far, but some minor upgrades would do no harm.Ībove I've welded the 6 stator brackets on. I would reinforce the tail bracket (that flat piece with the 18 deg angle) where it's welded to the yaw bearing. I'd consider a larger diameter yaw bearing. To do it over again, I would probably make a few things stronger. The steel bracket that supports the tail pivot is frm 1/2" thick steel, it's 6" tall and cut at an angle of 18 deg, very much along the lines of Hugh Piggott's plans - just scaled up a bit.Ībove we have the main chassis for the machine all welded up. The spindle for the trailer hub is suspended inside a 4" long piece of 4" dia pipe via two steel 'rings' I cut out with hole saws. The 'yaw bearing' (that part that slips over the top of the tower) is a 16" long piece of 3" diameter pipe. The disks cost around $70 ea, but they came out very nicely - all the holes predrilled etc. I had this done at a local shop that has a CNC Water Jet cutter. The steel rotors for the alternator are 16" in diameter, cut from 1/2" thick steel. (no Volvo parts here!!) I started with a trailer hub, and spindle. Unlike most other machines we've built in the past, this one does not make use of any salvaged auto parts. Pictured above are all the metal parts for the machine except for the tail. This is very similar to other designs we've built, just scaled up a bit. These pages serve as a brief summary about building and flying a 17' diameter wind turbine from scratch. Para Español UPDATE! This has been a good machine and the following pages should be informative, but before you get too involved building this design be sure to see the updated 17 foot design here: Īnd, be sure to check out our book Homebrew Wind Power for more small wind power information! You can also Email us and we'll fill you in as our email volume permits.check the Evolution page first.įrame fabrication and alternator design proceduresįrame finishing and alternator fabrication If you have any questions about what is current and what is not, or why we no longer work on certain designs, first check out our Wind Turbine Evolution page for a detailed history of how our designs have changed over the years. These will be the top of the list and flagged with an "active project" tag. Before starting this project, please check our main Wind Power page to check for similar, more recent designs. ![]() We keep ALL of our projects up on the internet for anyone that's interested.but we are no longer pursuing many of these older ideas. This page is about an older project of ours. ![]()
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